Journey to Havana, the heart of Cuba
Quaint medieval Spanish architecture, processions of old cars winding their way through the faded streets, and Cubans dancing and singing their way through it all. Cuba’s capital, Havana, has seen its fair share of invasions, wars, and revolutions, but it hasn’t lost its ancient charm.
The city is divided into three main neighborhoods: Old Havana (Habana Vieja), Centro Habana, and Vedado (New Town). Old Havana was added to the UNESCO World Heritage List in 1982, thanks to its numerous buildings, forts, squares, and monuments built during more than 400 years of Spanish rule. It’s also one of the most visited by travelers. The Cathedral Square, Plaza de la Asmar, and the city’s museums are just a few of the many remnants of old Havana.
Havana’s Sunset Cruise
Where to start your trip to Havana
El Capitolio
In Havana, the Capitolio serves as a landmark. Capitolio is the Spanish term for the centerpiece of a city, the city hall or Capitol. It was built in 1929, modeled after the Pantheon in Paris, France and the Basilica of San Pietro in Montorio in Rome, Italy. It was first used as a state office and Capitol, then as the building of the Cuban government’s Ministry of Science and Technology until 2013, when the Parliament was abolished after the 1959 Cuban Revolution. It has since undergone extensive renovations and was reopened last year to celebrate the 500th anniversary of the founding of the city of Havana. It now serves as the National Library of Science and Technology and is open to the public. Guided tours are offered hourly to explore its stunning dome, the world’s third-largest sculpture and French-style gardens.
A concentration of Cuban art
Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes
The museum is divided into the Cuban wing (Arte Cubano), located behind the Museum of the Revolution, and the International wing (Arte Universal), next to the Capitolio. The Cubano is housed in the Palacio de Bellas Artes, while the International is in the former Asturias Center. The Cuban wing displays works by Cuban artists from the 17th century to the present day. You’ll find both Caribbean-inspired colors and works that address issues in Cuban society. The International Pavilion has a collection of international art, mostly paintings from Europe during Spanish rule but also Egyptian, Roman, and Asian pieces.
A street full of rumba
Callejón de Hamel
Calle de Hamel is a narrow, two-block-long street in Centro Havana. With a mural by Cuban artist Salvador Gonzáles Escalona, a native of Camagüey, Cuba, showcasing Afro-Cuban art, devotees of the Afro-Cuban style gather here to paint funky paintings, perform, and engage in other freewheeling activities. Every Sunday at noon, rumba dancers gather for a dance performance. It’s best to arrive about 30 minutes early to get a good spot. There’s no entrance fee, but tipping is encouraged.
A balcony that protects you from the waves
Malecón
The Caribbean Sea seems to have nothing but smiles on its face, but its angry waves sometimes threaten life in the city. That’s why Havana’s residents have been building a seawall more than 5 meters high on the city’s northern shore since 1901. After decades of additions, it now stretches 8 kilometers from Fort San Salvador to the tunnel to Miramar. The Malecón not only protects the city from high waves but also serves as a shelter and meeting place for heat-weary citizens year-round. Most of the residences are old and without air conditioning, so the sea breeze cools them down at night. Young people seem to have more fun here: during the day, shirtless young men compete to climb the dizzying heights of the seawall and dive into the water, and after dark, the beach is filled with whispering lovers. Seeing the back of Kang Tae-gong casting his fishing rod into the Malecon at sunset naturally reminds me of The Old Man and the Sea. On summer nights, festivals are held here, and you can see many different races and cultures mingling. Lively salsa and reggaeton music is played to the sound of traditional Cuban drums, and travelers are sure to have a blast.
Havana’s first plaza
Plaza de Armas
Upon arrival in the New World, the Spanish conquistadors focused on transplanting European systems. The plazas are a prime example. The Plaza de Armas, which means “army square,” was the first square they built to govern. Unlike other plazas, which are centered around a cathedral or church, the Plaza de Armas is surrounded by the governing institutions: the governor’s residence, the vice governor’s residence, and the Royal Military Castle. It was here that the first mass in Havana was held in 1519, as well as meetings of the Havana City Council. In the center of the square is a statue of Carlos Manual de Céspedes, a Cuban nationalist who led the “Ten Years’ War” in 1868, the first war of independence in Cuban history. The square is also home to a used book market, where you’ll find books about Cuban heroes like Che Guevara, Fidel Castro, and José Martí.
The most beautiful cathedral in the Americas
Plaza de la Catedral
The Plaza de la Catedral is surrounded by 18th-century Baroque architecture, a rare find in Latin America. At its center is the Cathedral of San Cristóbal de Havana, built in 1727. Typically, Baroque architecture is characterized by symmetry, but in the case of the cathedral, the clock tower and bell tower are of different sizes. The square has been used as a residential area since the late 16th century, when it was called the “Square of the Swamp” because of the salt water that flowed through it. The buildings surrounding the square were mostly private mansions of the nobility, but after the Socialist Revolution, they became state property and are now restaurants and art galleries.
La Cabaña, a cabaña fortress with a nightly shelling ceremony, & Castillo del Morro, a castle built on a cliff
This fortress was built over the entire city for 70 years, starting in 1675. At 10 meters high and 4892 meters long, it’s the largest in Cuba. Initially, there were only two gates, which grew to nine, which were left open during the day and closed at 9pm. To mark the closing of the gates, a bombardment ceremony was held. Today, the tradition continues, and a bombardment ceremony is held every night at 9pm. The most popular spot for travelers at Fort Cabaña is the observation deck. You can see all of Havana from here, especially if you want to see the Bay of Havana at sunset. Around this time, stalls selling souvenirs open at the entrance to the castle. Che Guevara and Fidel Castro used the castle as their headquarters after they took over Havana. The castle was largely destroyed by the expansion of Havana’s city center in the 19th century, with only a few spots remaining.
In the 14th and 15th centuries, the castle was built as a fortress to ward off pirate invasions. During Spanish rule, the port of Havana was a gold center. Gold exploited in South America was collected in Havana before being shipped back to the Spanish homeland, and pirates were not uncommon. Morro Castle stretches from north to south. Inside its thick stone walls is a maze of small rooms that once housed warehouses and slaves. It sits on a cliff and makes a great observation deck. You can get a great view of Havana’s old town and the endless Caribbean Sea. The museum also houses a collection of materials about piracy from the 1500s to the 1900s.
All about the Cuban Socialist Revolución
Plaza de la Revolución, Museo de la Revolución, & Plaza 13 de Marzo Park.
Este square está ubicado en Havana’s New Town, Vedado. It covers a total area of 72,000 square meters. The square hosts numerous rallies, demonstrations, parades, concerts, and Labor Day celebrations. It’s also where Fidel Castro used to give speeches in front of 1 million people every year. The monument to José Martí, the National Theater, and various government buildings surround the Plaza de la Revolución. A Cuban poet of the siglo XIX, José Martí is aún revered by Cubans for his role in the country’s independence movement. A large memorial tower, completed in 1959 to commemorate the 100th anniversary of his birth, soars into the sky. The tower is 110 meters high, and a bust of José Martí stands 18 meters tall. At the top of the monument is an observation deck with views of the entire city of Havana. Among the buildings surrounding the square, the Interior Ministry Building with the faces of Che Guevara and Camilo Cienfuegos is a popular photo spot for travelers. “Hasta la Victoria Siempre” (To Eternal Victory), inscribed beneath the sculpture of Che Guevara, is the last line of a letter he wrote to Fidel as he was leaving Cuba.
Cuba is the last socialist country in the Caribbean. Contrary to the rigid image of socialism that often comes to mind, everything seems to be free, with music blaring in the streets and people dancing to music everywhere—except in the Museum of the Revolution. Each major city in Cuba has a revolutionary museum that displays materials related to the socialist revolution. In Havana, the building that has been the presidential palace since 1920 has been used as a museum of revolution. Es el mayor de los museos relacionados con la revolución y tiene el mayor exhibition. Behind the Museum of the Revolution is the Granma Memorial, which is a must-see attraction. Este is the Granma, Cuba’s most famous ship. It’s the ship that Che Guevara, Fidel Castro, and Raúl Castro took to enter Cuba from Mexico. Right in front of the Museum of the Revolution is the Plaza de la Revolución. On March 13, 1957, los jovenes revolucionarios stormed the presidential palace, and El Parque was constructed in honor of the students who were assassinated. The statue of José Martí is on horseback.
